Supervalk Mod 1

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Super Valk (Mod 1) Conversion
A “How To” Customization Guide to convert the Valkyrie Interstate into a one-of-a-kind muscle bike
 
See Mod 2 for additional info

Tools – A good quality Metric tool set is a must.  Common items needed include 10-14 mm wrenches, Metric Socket and ratchet, Hex keys, flat head and Phillips screw drivers, drill, bits, work lights, soldering iron and solder.

 
 Trailer 4 wire quick connect (any auto parts store)
 
 Honda Shop Manual
 

 

Items required for the “Quick Release” trunk Do-it yourself (no machine shop).

 Tap and Die,  
 Cutting wheel (several replacement wheels),  
 Drill press  
 Drill bits  
 2 16mm – 20 mm bolts (prefer chrome)
  2 24 mm bolts (prefer chrome)
 

 Locate a suitable work area with good lighting, remember to use rags, cardboard, etc. to protect the paint and chrome, especially while soldering.

 Decide:

 Do you want to use just the stock Valkyrie Std. Brake light?  
 Do you want to replace the Tag and Turn signals?  
 Do you want to detach and reattach your trunk, often?  This takes over 30 minutes without the “Quick Release”, and increases the likelihood of scratching the trunk or paint, especially if you have a CB.  

Performing the Conversion
 Step 1 – Removing the Trunk
Remove the seat
Remove the right side cover
Undo the Antenna
Undo rear speakers (if installed)
If you have the CB, undo the left side CB cable, and the right side CB plug
Undo Brake \ Running light plug, mark a spot where wires are under the seat area (for easy access to attach and detach), this is where the new trailer plug will go.
Remove bolts inside trunk holding the trunk to the frame (6 bolts, have small round plastic covers over them)
Carefully lift trunk, and place on soft blanket and cover (scratches easily)
Remove trunk frame, 4 bolts, set aside (now you know why the “Quick Release” is worth it)
 

Step 2 – Tapping the rails (If you are doing the “Quick Release” Modification)
Doing one rail at a time is the preferred way as the other rail is left attached securing the fender.  If both are removed, support the fender by placing a block of wood between the fender and the tire.  2 people may be needed to reattach the fender.

Important – I recommend that you have a machine shop perform the cutting and tapping of the rails.  If you are uncomfortable doing this type of work, either take the part to a machine shop, or get help from someone familiar with these tools.

1.      Remove one rail

2.      Put on eye protection and gloves

3.      Locate both studs

4.      Place duct tape over the rail where cutting to help reduce scratching

5.      Using a cutting disc (Dremel moto tool with fiberglass cutting blades works well, an Air cutter works much better) cut the stud off next to the rail.  Be very careful about scratching.

6.      Repeat on the other stud.

7.      Mark the center where the old stud was

8.      Using a small, new, drill bit, drill a pilot hole (make sure to brace the rail so it will not move, use care not to scratch the rail), recommend you start smaller that 1/8”, depending on the power of the drill press

9.      Select the size bolt to tap for (Note: Finding metric chrome bolts is much harder than US sizes, use a similar US size ,if necessary, to get the right chrome bolts, verify they will fit through the trunk mount holes, lengths are 16 – 20 mm (length) front and 24 mm (length) rear, 2 each)

10.  Work you way up using successive drill bits to the size recommended for the tap you are using

11.  Repeat for the other mounting point (where the stud was)

12.  Tap the hole (if you do not know how to tap metal, get help, replacement rails are over $300 per set)

13.  Note: If the front hole does not hold a tap, drill out to a size larger than the bolt, and have a nut spot-welded on the inside of the trunk rail to thread the bolt into.

14.  Reinstall the rail on the bike

15.  Repeat for the other side

 Step 3 – Brake, tail light, Turn signals, and Tag mount
Using the Std Valkyrie Tail light

1.      Remove the black plug on the rear fender

2.      Install the tail light

3.      Run the wires under the fender to exit where the seat rests

4.      Wire according to Step 4 Wiring Instructions.

 



 Using a Custom Tail Light, Turn Signals and Tag Mount
1.      Remove the tag mount and turn signals, carefully detach the wires at the bullet couplings (set aside old mount if you ever want to reinstall)

2.      Determine the look and fit of the new taillight, turn signals and tag mount (make sure everything fits where you want it, and check underneath the fender to determine what you have to drill through)

3.      Position the Custom Chrome tag mount where desired, check level and position carefully.  Mark location of holes with a grease pencil.

4.      Place a block of wood between the tire and where you are drilling through the fender (you really don’t want to drill a 200 dollar tire).

5.      Drill 2 holes for the bolts, and one larger hole for the wires if you are mounting the lighted tag frame.

6.      Mount tag mount

7.      Cut a slot in the tag for the lighted frame wires to pass around, tape wires and carefully feed wires around tag, and through the hole in the tag mount and fender.  ***Caution*** use extra care with the wires, nicks in these wires will be the most likely reason for shorts in the brake and running lights.

8.      Position Aurora carefully, mark bolt holes, then drill 2 holes for the bolts (depending where you mounted the light, you may be able to run the wires through the existing square hole in the fender)

9.      Carefully mount the light (using both rubber mounts will allow the light to mold to the fender better) to the fender, after feeding the wires through the rubber mount (consider going to Step 4 Wiring Instructions to wire the lights before mounting the tail light to the fender, this may make it easier than working under the bike)

10.  Adjust the tag mount and taillight for alignment, and tighten down, use loc-tite as necessary.

11.  The Lifebrite lites can be mounted between the bags and fender using self-adhesive tape.  Make sure to fasten to the fender instead of the bag, this makes removing your bags easier.  Another option is to fashion a bracket for the tag frame, or the bag rails (if you have them).

12.  You might consider additional LED turn signals, if you are concerned the Aurora turn signals are not as bright as you want, or use the single filament turn signals, which are only on while blinking.  (I use Additional LED Yellow lights from LifeBrite, a nice mod is to make chrome tabs coming off the tag to secure the lights to)

13.  You can also go to NAPA and get Krypton 1157 bulbs, these fit inside the Aurora turn signal and are much brighter.

14.  Covering up the black plastic piece Honda used to cover the old Tail light hole from the tourer and Std models is problematic.  I used a reflective decal.  If it ever gets to be a big deal, I’ll have it filled-in and painted at a body shop.

Step 4 – Wiring Instructions
Wiring the Custom Tail light and Tag frame light
1.      Cover the tag frame light wires with shrink-wrap (use that supplied with the Aurora for the turn signals, if available)

2.      Run an extra brake wire from the seat area underneath the fender to the new taillight, cover this wire with shrink-wrap or other protective coating

3.      Secure both the tag frame light wires, and brake light wire underneath the fender in the wire channel, using tie wraps or similar method

4.      Connect the running light wires (if your Aurora has dual filament turn signal, connect these also) and the tag frame running light wire to the existing tag light wire connector, solder

5.      Connect the tag frame light brake wire, and the brake light wire to the new brake light wire you ran under the fender, solder

6.      Connect right and left turn signals to the respective existing turn signal wire connections, solder

7.      Connect the tag frame light ground to the existing ground connector

Wiring the Std Tail light
Cover the running, ground, and brake light from the new Tail light with protective shrink-wrap, run underneath the fender to come out under the seat, run wire out hole

Connecting the under seat wires
1.      Cut the brake, running light wire at the place you marked in step one (be careful to leave yourself room to attach and reattach the wires)

2.      Reconnect the connection end underneath the right side cover

3.      Connect the brake light (and running light and ground on the Std Valkyrie tail light) and the brake, running, and ground wires from the right side connector (in 2 above) to the 4 prong trailer Quick Connect, and solder (the bare prong should have no connection, or a ground only connection, otherwise it will short out)

4.      Connect the other Trailer Quick Connect to the trunk side brake, running, and ground wires, make sure the wires line up properly with the other side of the trailer Quick Connect, solder

5.      Test all lights

Step 5 – Reattaching the trunk
With the Quick Connect option
1.      Carefully position the trunk (avoid scratching), a towel, soft cloth, or sponge between the trunk and fender makes this an easy one person job.

2.      Place bolts through the trunk rail into the tapped rail and secure

3.      Run wires to the respective connections, and connect

4.      Connect the trailer Quick Connect

5.      Replace seat

Without the Quick Connect option
Reverse Step 1, remembering to connect the trailer Quick Connect

 Step 6 – Get Some Hot Pipes

Ride Safe – Blessings “Rabbi” Cameron