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Author Topic: Clutch replacement  (Read 1273 times)
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Guest
« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2003, 11:18:54 AM »

Quote
Originally posted by Florida Tom
Livestm, no bleeding kit is required to bleed hydraulic systems. Just use the old method of holding the clutch in and opening the bleed valve on the clutch cylinder to bleed air. It's quite simple. I've bled my hydraulic systems for over 50 years that way and it is still a good method.

If you need the complete description of this simple bleeding procedure, let me know.

FT


Thanks Tom
Please e-mail the info livestm@hotmail.com
I think I have found the bleed valve in the center. Do I do it like breaks attach a tube to a glass container open and bleed and fill toll no bubbles are seen
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'KC'
Guest
« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2004, 03:47:15 AM »

That would be the way to do it, just the same as doing the brakes. The vac system just makes it a little easir, if the lever and the bleed valve are too far apart.
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Guest
« Reply #17 on: January 17, 2004, 08:27:34 PM »

Check everything else first!  My clutch was slipping while under load also and I thought the clutch was bad.  It was actually nothing - a $25.00 fix.  There is a rather complex pin assembly between the clutch lever and the master cylinder that was simply binding on my bike.  My clutch lever had worn (from lack of lubricant - bad me) and the pin was binding.
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livestm
Guest
« Reply #18 on: January 18, 2004, 12:37:53 PM »

Quote
Originally posted by Bob B
Check everything else first!  My clutch was slipping while under load also and I thought the clutch was bad.  It was actually nothing - a $25.00 fix.  There is a rather complex pin assembly between the clutch lever and the master cylinder that was simply binding on my bike.  My clutch lever had worn (from lack of lubricant - bad me) and the pin was binding.


Cheesy Thanks Bob will check this out
I haven't got to a dealer yet as its a bit cold here for 60 miles one way but am planning on keeping a close eye on what they do, as they do it
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