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Alpha Dragon
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« on: June 13, 2011, 06:15:11 PM » |
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I have some scummy places on my saddlebags which need touching up, so ordered the paint from ColorRite. (Good and easy people to deal with). Anyone in the PNW want to come over and do a little touch up on their bikes let me know. I will post before and after pics.
Marty
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Gun totin', motorcycle ridin', whisky drinkin', meat eatin' American. That's who I am...  |
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MP
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1997 Standard and 2001 red/blk I/S with sidecar
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« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2011, 06:49:59 AM » |
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I am interested to see how it turns out. Please also list procedure you used. Thanks.
MP
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Scranton, ND "Riding with Cycho"  |
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Alpha Dragon
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« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2011, 09:18:52 AM » |
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I am interested to see how it turns out. Please also list procedure you used. Thanks.
MP
I was actually hoping for some tips/recomendations on how to use it. |
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Gun totin', motorcycle ridin', whisky drinkin', meat eatin' American. That's who I am... |
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MP
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1997 Standard and 2001 red/blk I/S with sidecar
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« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2011, 09:46:58 AM » |
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I am interested to see how it turns out. Please also list procedure you used. Thanks.
MP
I was actually hoping for some tips/recomendations on how to use it. That is what I was looking for too! LOL Any painters out here? MP |
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Scranton, ND "Riding with Cycho" |
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oldman
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« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2011, 10:32:00 AM » |
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No help from me either, I am waiting for the "expert" to come forward. I too have scratches on the saddle bags.
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1999 Green/Silver Interstate  |
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TurnBoy/John
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Chicago IL
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« Reply #5 on: June 14, 2011, 08:28:39 PM » |
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I just called the color rite place they are too high price for paint.I am wanting to paint my side covers the champagne color I have on the bike. They told me $124.00 for a pint of paint Now I talked with my friend at a body shop and he told me to take the bike to Terrace Supply Company they deal with paint supplies also my friend get some things from there.They came out to scan the color so my parts are being painted as I speak.The color will be awesome I am not doing to entire cover but just the middle part .
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TurnBoy/John 2001 Valkyrie Interstate.
2004 Valkyrie Rune
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The Anvil
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« Reply #6 on: June 14, 2011, 10:08:03 PM » |
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Touch up paint is tricky. For one thing, colors tend to fade, even with a good UV resistant clearcoat there will some fading. And often the clearcoat and paint itself will oxidize leaving a dull layer. First step? Use a good cleaner wax and remove that old layer so your original paint is as close to the color it was when it rolled off the showroom floor as it can possibly be.
Whether it's spray touch up or brush on, for the proper result you will need to wet-sand and buff the area you touch up to blend it with the old paint. With deep scratches this make take a couple of careful applications and sanding. If you have a deep scratch with raised edges then I would sand it first to level THEN paint. If it's a chip out of a metal part (or even plastic) then it's sometimes wise to sand it out a little larger because the paint immediately around the chip/scratch may have started to lift. You want to start smoooooth. Also, build the paint up a bit to provide a base for the leveling and blending, otherwise you might level and blend right through it. Also, while many touch-up manufacturers claim that primer is not required, it can't hurt and on metal parts (especially steel) it is a must, regardless of what the manufacturer claims.
I've personally found that for touching up an airbrush is the best way to apply the paint, but not everyone has airbrush skills or access to good equipment. You can still get good results even with a spray can or brush, it just means more post-paint sanding and blending so that the spot you touched up doesn't stand out. But by far THE most important part of touch-up painting is PATIENCE. Rush it and it will look like poddy.
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JetDriver
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Columbus, OH
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« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2011, 08:22:55 AM » |
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One thought on Anvil's advise- I was under the impression you don't want any wax on the item you're going to paint. Wax will repel the paint. Rather than a cleaner wax, I'd probably use a polish. It has the cutting crystals that will clean the paint, but with no wax. That's what a cleaner wax is, polish mixed in with the wax. I've also found better results cleaning my paint with something like Meguiars Fine Cut polish, or Swirl-X, or similar. These are a little more aggressive then regular polish, but still clearcoat safe. As you rub this product, the crystals start out at one size, and then break down into progressively smaller sizes until it eventually cuts with the same effect as a regular polish.
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« Last Edit: June 18, 2011, 11:16:06 AM by JetDriver »
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The Anvil
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2011, 02:35:51 PM » |
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Yeah, I omitted a step. For that matter, even polish will leave a residue that you want to get rid of before painting so whether you use an abrasive cleaner wax or polish is up to you. But the last step before prime and paint should be to wipe the area down with clean cloth and a solvent like MEK.
However, wax on areas surrounding the area you're painting will make it a lot easier to remove any over-spray.
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