Art,
I just rebuilt my forks last winter (77K miles, 03' Std). I wasn't leaking fluid, but wanted to put in Progressive springs so I decided to replace the seals while I was there. Like Valker & MP say, it wasn't bad at all as long as you have the special "Honda tool" for the left fork. I pretty much followed the shop manual step by step and I think I had an equal amount of time into removing & reinstalling the forks on the bike as I did rebuilding them. I didn't replace the slider or guide bushings as mine happened to be in great shape. The dark gray teflon coating that needs to be inspected for wear is on the "inner" surface of the guide bushing, and on the "outer" surface of the slider bushing.
I used just under 3 pints of new fluid (old was pretty dark in color). I also made a seal "driver" out of a PVC union and it worked fine (see Rattlebars link below)
http://www.rattlebars.com/vtx/forkseala.jpgOne thing I learned... as done per the manual, when you drive the oil seal back in place, you are actually driving the oil seal AND guide bushing at the same time. Its much easier if you drive just the guide bushing (topped off by the backup ring) first, then drive the oil seal on top of that in a second step.
Also, I don't remember if the book clarifies it well, but you will want to pay attention to the number of threads exposed above the locknut and position it the same distance down when you reassemble.
Good Luck & Safe Riding...
