Changing clutch fluid and speed bleeders

[Oceandiver]

My clutch fluid was turning brown so I decided to change it and put the speed bleeder on at the same time.  Drained the fluid and started adding the new clutch fluid, absolutely could not get the air out, even though coming through the bleeder perfectly.  Finally decided to break open the banjo fitting at the reservoir, problem solved.  There was air trapped in there, have to do the same thing with my VTX1300 front brake line, only down at the caliper.
By the way, the fluid must have been old 'cause it had that orangish/brownish slop at the bottom of the reservoir.  Once cleaned out and new fluid, the clutch feels totally different, much more responsive than it was with the old fluid and goo.  Well worth doing.

[lew l]

Recently did the same thing on both my bikes. Speedbleeders make the job EASY.
         Lew

[jrhorton]

good job....I would recommend running the bike for a bit, then flushing again.  You might be surprised how much more gunk can be flushed out, especially if it was really neglected.  We did this to a friend's 2000 where the fluids were black with a lot of particulates and the second flush was worth doing.

enjoy....

[lew l]

Diver,
     In your post you said that you drained the clutch fluid and then had a difficult time getting the air out of the lines.  Did you let air into the lines?? I use a turkey baster and remove most of the fluid in the res. then add new fluid and use the speed bleeders to remove .   " rinse and repete" twice. Brake flluid is cheap but never let air into the system. I, of course, have NEVER let one molecule of oxygen or any nitrogen in my Valks systems-------- Oh wait,----I did on the V-Max. Took about 10 minutes of pumping the clutch lever and bleeding to get pressure but it finally bleed completly. Boy was I angry at my self. I heard that sucking sound and I knew I was in for much more grief.
  Now all is good on both bikes.
              Lew

[honda*mann]

Hi,

How does a speed bleeder work?


When I bleed brakes/clutch with a normal bleeder:
     1.  I pull in lever
     2. Crack open bleeder with (rubber hose on it) till fluid stops
     3. Tighten bleeder back up
     4. Repeat till fluid is clear and no bubbles.

[MP]

The speed bleeder eliminates step #3.  It reseals, so you do not have to tighten each time.  Just keep pumping! 

MP

[mello dude]

With speed bleeders, its just crack it and pump. (Assuming you have your bleed tube on)

Link

http://spieglerusa.com/brakes/speed-bleeder.html

Whats cool is I live 15 minutes from these guys. Cool stuff......

[Oceandiver]

I put the speed bleeder on the clutch but didn't do the brakes yet.  Front is easy but I am thinking I need to take the saddle bag off in the back, is removing the saddle bag a big deal?  Also, the bike, fresh back from our ride in Newfoundland, just turned 10,000 miles, I am thinking I should get a set of brake pads and just put them on since the saddle bag is off anyway.

[NITRO]

I put the speed bleeder on the clutch but didn't do the brakes yet.  Front is easy but I am thinking I need to take the saddle bag off in the back, is removing the saddle bag a big deal?  Also, the bike, fresh back from our ride in Newfoundland, just turned 10,000 miles, I am thinking I should get a set of brake pads and just put them on since the saddle bag is off anyway.

Taking the saddlebag off is very easy, just a few bolts to remove and the bag lifts off.

[jrhorton]

Hopefully you bought the speedbleeder "bladder" bag when you bought the bleeders.  Makes this a no mess job.

Having the saddlebag out of the way makes it a bit easier and you have more room for the wrench and everything is exposed to allow a bit of housekeeping while you're down there.

[JetDriver]

  Also, the bike, fresh back from our ride in Newfoundland, just turned 10,000 miles, I am thinking I should get a set of brake pads and just put them on since the saddle bag is off anyway.

You shouldn't need brake pads yet.  I got almost 50,000 miles out of my first set.

[MP]

4 bolts inside the bag.  two on the top side, and two on the bottom.  Just remove, and the bag lifts off.

MP

[ossvalk]

69000 + out of my rear brakes  Insepct them while the bags are off, you cant go wrong having a spare tho

Time to think about replacing clutch and rear brake fluid  DOnt remember if I ever did it

Rear brake and clutch work just fine.

I know I have done the front a few times including 2 yrs ago

[VALKIFIED]

The PO of my I/S did alot of parades and such so I changed my rear pads at 32,000. Still had some life left in them. Saddle bags are pretty easy just start all your bolts first and then snug them up. If you have saddlebag rails watch for the spacer between the rail and bag I lost one already and had to improvise. Clutch fluid change and speed bleeders are on my long list for winter.