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Author Topic: CA desmog?  (Read 649 times)
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Mulepick
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« on: October 19, 2011, 07:16:49 PM »

I'm in the middle of doing a desmog on my CA version 98 Valk.  I'm using redeye's "shiny" desmog kit and all is going as expected until I run into the CA-only stuff.  I tossed the bottom vapor box long ago but now am looking at the purge control valve/carb air vent control valve assembly.  The kit does not contain the caps necessary so I'm wondering if this assembly can be removed.  I've got an email into Eric at redeye and I think he's smart and makes good products but I want to hear how other CA model owners handled this.

Tks,

Bob

P.S.
I'm also installing a non-vacuum Pingle.  It seems like it will be quite a reach to get to considering the OEM had a remote stem.  Would it be easier to access from the right?  Anyone tried installing it for RHS access?  Just wondering.

B


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98 Valk w/fairing, hard bags, desmogged
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2011, 07:54:06 PM »

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/smog.htm Found it, hope this helps, This is what I used to do mine!
« Last Edit: October 20, 2011, 08:07:35 PM by Challenger » Logged
Mulepick
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« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2011, 01:29:41 AM »

Very helpful, thanks.

I believe I will cap off each carb individually v. the spider to remove more potentially leaky vac hoses though I'll probably retain the carb drain hoses.  3/16 caps should do it.  I like the redeye kit v. the kit shown here.  Pingle petcock and I'll never have to remove the air box again.

Hope I don't run lean.

Bob
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98 Valk w/fairing, hard bags, desmogged
83 Rokon Trailbreaker
Mulepick
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« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2011, 07:30:26 PM »

CA smog debrief:

So.  On the CA model you get to not only plug all the plugs with, say, a "shiny" redeye desmog kit and remove all the hard piping, PAIR, reed valve assys, etc, but you also get rid of the purge control valve, the carb air vent control valve, the associated piping and the canister.  In addition to the kit you'll need six 3/16 vacuum caps for each carb, a routing plan for the carb breather hoses (I bought a longer tubes and a tee, attached them to tee and stuck tee in one of the holes that exist for tubes #14), AND a cap for the nipple on carb #3.  I highlight this because I haven't seen it has part of any other writeup.  The little nipple on the end of the vent control valve goes to a nipple above the float bowl on carb 3.  See photo.  This takes a smaller cap, same size as intake manifolds.  Red eye sells them in three packs with "finger friendly" metal stays.  >I have no relationship to red eye aside fm being a customer<

Of course, if you're swapping to a non-vac petcock as I did you get to throw away another vac hose and add another plug to #6 intake.



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« Last Edit: October 25, 2011, 08:53:09 PM by Mulepick » Logged

98 Valk w/fairing, hard bags, desmogged
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« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2011, 07:35:14 PM »

Good job on the write-up, mine has been desmogged for three years now and the plugs look good, so no lean problem, I used the canister for a vac reservoir for my cruise control.
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Mulepick
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« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2011, 08:56:15 PM »

Good to know about no lean condition and good head on use of canister.  Did you adjust the pilot screws?  If so, how far out?
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stlthmsta
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« Reply #6 on: October 28, 2011, 04:38:15 PM »

Plastic plug caps can be bought at an auto parts store to plug the air box and others. I have a variety of sizes. Also, desmogging should have no affect on mixture. It only puts air in to the exhaust to burn unspent gases.  It does clean up the look of the engine and simplify things.  TM
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Mulepick
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« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2011, 06:32:50 PM »

Took my first long ride yesteday after the desmog/pingle vale install.  I notice easier startup but a little more backfiring at high rpm engine slowing and a little just over idle.  Idle at around 500 also a little rough.  I'll check pilot screws @2.25 turns and if that doesn't get it, sync the carbs.

Bob
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98 Valk w/fairing, hard bags, desmogged
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« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2011, 07:22:44 PM »

I Have my pilots at 2-1/4 turns. I did not have to adjust my idle up after the desmog and it runs super smooth, I would double check your vac caps and plugs,
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Mulepick
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« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2011, 08:25:43 PM »

Yep, I'll try at 2 1/4.  I think it's interesting that the manual calls for 98 and up Valks to be as follows:

49 state:  2 1/4
CA:          2 3/8

So this means that one is "leaning down" the mix after the desmog in the face of people sometimes complaining that  they run lean after desmog.  Anyway, tool's on order I'll ensure plugs are good and screws are 2.25 out.
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98 Valk w/fairing, hard bags, desmogged
83 Rokon Trailbreaker
berto
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« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2011, 08:47:28 PM »

Got a question for the board........Just finished a CA desmog.
Plugged everything up and set the petcock vacum off of manifold #6 as indicated. However on the Tim Skelton desmog page ...He show vacum pick up at carb #3. Does it make any difference ? Would it work either way ?
Did not have a chance to take it for a ride but bike fired up and idled fine, will know more once on the rode.             Thank-you     
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NITRO
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« Reply #11 on: November 28, 2011, 07:17:31 AM »

It doesn't matter which carb you use for the petcock. #6 is the closest to the petcock, which is probably why it is the one Honda used.
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salty
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« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2011, 01:37:08 PM »

Mulepick synch the carbs and I'll bet that popping will vanish. Had to on mine after the desmog and put the pilots at 2.25 turns. If yours still pops try 2.5 turns. Isn't the idle a little low at 500 rpm?
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MP
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« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2011, 07:49:04 AM »

Idle IS too low at 500.  Put it at 900-1000 warm, and a LOT of problems go away.  Ask Chicago Mark!  LOL  Grin

We are used to hearing the 2 cyl V Twinkies, and think our 6 cyl should sound like them.  It does NOT.  It just sounds so much faster because of 3X the cylinders. 

Get the rpms up to speed, and see if that helps.

MP
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