Opinions please - How do ya' like my new driving lights...

I got a pair of 130-watt off road lights from JC Whitney for $50. I fabricated a pair of simple angle brackets and attached them to the lower windshield bolts. The brackets aren't pretty and the light mounts, since they are for a truck, are huge. And the lights are huge. But then the Valk is huge too. I haven't done any wiring yet as I'm trying to decide if I like the look. If I keep them I'll use a relay and wire them into the high beam. If anyone knows of instructions it would save me a lot of head-scratching.

So, based on these three small images, what do you folks think of the look?

Thanks,
John

I can't wait to fire 'em up. Spotting dear is exactly what I have in mind. I work nights and my ride home includes some rural areas where I've seen all manner of fur-bearing critters including cows. The extra lead time should be awesome.

To answer your question, they were $24.99 each. The finish looks great. Nice quality throughout.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-2679/c-10101

They also have stainless steel for a little bit more.

steelhorse

keep us posted on this. i like the look. my only question would be, will the alternator and battery handle that big a light without frying ?

d.c.c.

[ossiningvalkyrie]

Deer scare the bejezus out of me too
I think you are real smart to want more reaction time at night and the look of your mount is clean and simple. Did you use chrome hardware?
And If that is a total of 300 watts of lights all I can say is wow
The foglights on the pods of the interstates are only 55W each
IMHO wire them up separate from the high beams on their own circuit (with a lighted switch so you can see real easy is it on)  
so there is no way the current will go through the starter button circuit    I believe from the vrcc posts that the starter button is an achilles heel on the valk
Can anyone explain why this is I forget the answer?
evan

[MrBones]

Steelhorse; Like the lights alot. But have a question about the chrome covers around your key switch and I assume your fuel knob. I have a set just like them was on when I bought it. How do I remove them? What I mean is, are there nuts on the inside that will fall if I remove the bolts or are they in special brackets? Looking into removing the gas tank to change air filter. Thanks for any help.

CMAWEST : From what I've read the alternator can power a small city. The Rattlebars site has some great info:

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/

Click the ELECTRICS link and scroll down to ALTERNATOR.


ossiningvalkyrie :
All the hardware that came with the light is chrome but the bracket I made is just mild steel. I'll need to paint it or get it chromed.  And I agree with you that I need a separate switch. I'll wire it so that I can have them (1)on, (2)off, or (3)come on with the hi-beams. I'll use a relay and separate fused power source. As you mentioned, the factory headlight power does indeed go through the start switch. The reason is so the headlight is disabled when you push the start button.


MrBones :
Those trim pieces you mentioned were on the bike when I bought it from the original owner. Are they aftermarket? I didn't know. I haven't had the key switch cover off but I did remove the petcock switch and cover and it was a pain in the butt. There is a cotter key in the knob but also a screw deep inside the knob. And several spacers and washers holding the trim piece. It was a bit of a jigsaw puzzle.

[MrBones]

Steelhorse;  Thanks, I be like you, the covers were on it when I bought it. So guess I will have to go fish.

['KC']

Steelhorse; nice lights1 I also like your choice of colors on your Valkyrie, that has always been one of my favorites.

check out BigBF's website for the hardware needed to make removing the fuel side engine hanger.  I made the pieces myself and this makes accessing hoses from the tank much easier and you never have to deal with the spacers ever again.  If you have any questions e-mail me. jrhorton@lycos.com

http://www.bigbf.com/product_sale/

look for engine hanger hardware

also here's a do it yourself link

http://www.geocities.com/verminnw/EngineHanger.html

I couldn't find the studs so I used metric bolts (50 mm) threaded all the way to the head and just cut off the hex heads and filed the threads for smooth operation.  The nuts can be adjusted for depth then use red locktite to fix them in place on the stud.  Don't use locktite when installing the studs into the fuel valve assembly!! The chrome acorn nuts can be purchased from from Ace hardware.  You may have to special order them if your local Ace doesn't stock them.  I ended up buying a pack of 10 chrome acorn nuts and made a set for my sister's Valk.  This leaves me a few spares just in case.

Make sure you lay a towel between the engine and the fuel valve before you try to remove existing bolts.  The spacers will fall when the bolts are removed and they're a pain to fish out of the recesses.  I only removed one bolt at a time and threaded the stud into the removed bolt hole.  This kept most of the spacers in place except for the last bolt.

good luck.  this was an easy mod and really makes removing the engine hanger a breeze.

If you need any more info e-mail me at jrhorton@lycos.com


John

[MrBones]

jrhorton thanks for the info and the sites were very easy to understand. But if I get lost will give a yell.

I'd recommend you review the circuit the high beam is on. You may be stressing the circuit. OEM design never figures in the much "headroom" in any circuit design.

The relay is the right way but I'd create a new circuit off the main bus in the bike. The headlight switch could then actuate the relay

Jay
BSEE

Thanks Jay,

I decided to include two relays. Power to the big lights will come through a new fused feed straight off the main bus as you suggested.

The second relay will improve the factory wiring by no longer having the starter button and hi-beam switch carry headlight amperage.

All the wiring is per ideas on Chet's page which is awesome.

I also added two micro toggle switches to give complete control over the headlight and auxiliary lighting. It took me a while to get up the nerve but I drilled holes in my headlight housing. I like the way it turned out. Check it out:

Nice approach.....I'm an electrical engineer so if there are any questions feel free to ask.

Please check out my website and see the rear light kit I am getting ready for the Vakyries/AERO/SABRE/ACE bikes.

I offer the kit for the Magnas and now expanding.

http://www.motorcycleupgrades.com

Jay

I'd strongly recommend getting boots for those switches. Switches are not waterproof by design. The boots are an integral part of the nut assembly that secures the switch.

Check out a good electronic supply house and get a quote on a switch boot for the threads associated with those switches.

Click on this link to see a sample switch boot
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/620/1059.pdf

Jay