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Author Topic: Adjust Your Valves  (Read 1502 times)
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« on: February 22, 2003, 04:37:50 PM »

ADJUST THE VALVES


TORQUE AND OTHER VALUES:
VALVE LOCK NUT 23 N.m (17 lbf.ft)
CYLINDER HEAD BOLT 12 N.m (9 lbf.ft)
Exaust Valve Clearance 0.22mm (0.009 in)
Intake Valve Clearance 0.15mm (0.006 in)

General Useful Information:
1-Make sure the engine is cold, less than 100 (DUH).
2-Ummmm.... it is not necessary to drain the oil, but schedule the adjustment during a oil change.
3-Use the next size up feeler to get an idea of too tight. Its better to be loose than tight.
4-Both valves will be closed when a cylinder is on its compression stroke.
5-If you don't know which cylinder is which, the spark plug wires have numbers on them. But, Brake side is #1 at front then #3 then #5. Shifter side, #2, #4, then #6 front to back.
6-use silicone in the 4 corners (90 degree) of each valve cover when re-assembling. (oil leaks)
7-careful! those big headed cover allens are fragile. Tighten to 12 N.m (9lbf.ft) [note, that ain't very tight at all].
8-Always turn the crank counter clockwise.
9-Put a turkey roasting (or some such) pan under the covers when you remove. They will have a little oil in them.
10-plain old generic clay kitty litter is excellent for "floor dry." Absorbs the oil right out of concrete and sweeps up for re-use.

GO FOR IT
1. Start by removing the cylinder head rear cam covers (4 allen screws).

2. Next remove both valve covers, 12 big head allen screws with black plugs.

3. Remove the timing mark cover located at the end of the crank on the front of the engine. It's round and has three allen screws.

4. Turning the engine counter clockwise, align the 1,2 timing mark with the indicator using a socket w/ratchet. Be sure the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. On the compression stroke, both valves will be closed on the cylinder and the springs will not be compressed.

5. After aligning on the 1,2 mark, check #1 intake clearance .006"and the exhaust clearence .009" (all cylinders are the same).

6. If things seem very wrong recheck the alignment mark/compression stroke or see that two of the feeler gauges didn't stick together Sad

7. If you need to change anything loosen the lock nut while holding the adjusting screw with a larger flat screwdriver. With the nut slightly loose, turn the screw as necessary to reach alignment (slight drag on feeler gauge). Recheck the clearance after tightening the lock nut. Torque 23N.m (2.3kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft)

8. Now rotate the crank counter clockwise 120 degrees to the 3,4 timing mark.

9. So now the #4 cylinder should be TDC, check\align the #4 cylinder.

10. Next is the 5,6 mark with #5 coming TDC, check\align the #5 cylinder.

11. Next is the 1,2 mark with #2 coming TDC, check\align the #2 cylinder.

12. Next is the 3,4 mark with #3 coming TDC, check\align the #3 cylinder.

13. Next is the 5,6 mark with #6 coming TDC, check\align the #6 cylinder.

14. Lube the gaskets to reseal.
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promethes451
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2007, 10:45:01 PM »

Hey guys, silly question.  When adjusting valves, the instructions say to rotate the engine counter clockwise.
Is that counter clockwise as you look at the timing mark (from front of bike to rear) or as you sit on the bike?

Thanks in advance,
Chris
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'KC'
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« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2007, 05:42:10 AM »

I've done mine a number of times. The biggest problem with the whole job is getting the valve covers back on right, without disturbing the position of the gaskets on them, because it will leak enough to let you know pretty quick.
The right side has a wiring harness that runs along the rear of the timing cover area, and just to the forward edge of the valve cover. It can be pretty tricky to get the valve cover past it, and not knock the gasket loose.  Tricky but not too difficult.
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promethes451
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« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2007, 07:49:20 PM »

Thanks gents.  I'll give it a try and be particularly careful with the gasket during reassembly.

Regards,
Chris
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dennisraz
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« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2007, 07:08:17 PM »

I've done my valve adjustment a few times,including today.
The only thing that concerns me is getting the timing marks lined up perfectly when making the adjustments.
After finishing the job,the valve train is much quieter,and she runs quite good!
:love:
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