labor hours needed to clean carbs/adjust valves?

[cookiedough]

While I get my new tires this year sometime, I am thinking of getting the carbs cleaned and valves adjusted.  I think I have a lean condition with blued pipes along with some backfiring/knocking from engine, of which can be felt sometimes by my right front foot on the hwy. pegs upfront, when letting off the gas going hwy. speeds.  Otherwise, the bike runs pretty good and was just wondering how many hours labor this might take?  I called 1 Honda dealer and they said 5-6 hours (80 bucks or so per hour - ouch) total time by the time they take everything apart and reassemble and adjust.  Does this seem about right and do you think I could get a deal by a little if I get my tires bought and installed by that same dealer the same day?  I could just run a few more cans of seafoam thru the tank, but I don't think it will get rid of my hickup.  Any ideas or should I just live with the Valk. running at 85-90% as it should?  Probably won't do any harm if left alone, but never know?

[NITRO]

What kind of pipes do you have? Stock are double-walled and shouldn't blue.

I had the same problem under decel and it turned out to be a split vaccum line. After fixing that, I had no more problems. You could also consider de-smogging your bike and avoid all future problems related to the lines.

[cookiedough]

stock, double walled pipes would be my guess since I'm sure they are the stock headers on my 2001 Interstate I bought 3 seasons ago.  They are blued pretty bad all 6 of them.

[JetDriver]

What kind of pipes do you have? Stock are double-walled and shouldn't blue.

I can think of a situation where they might blue.  Say, for example, a person would want to run their bike in the winter, you know, just to get everything moving and lubed and all.  But after a few times of this, maybe it would get boring, or something else like that.  So Einstein, er, I mean this guy might have a moment of genius, and say, "Hey, I'll just set my choke so the rpm is about 2000, and I'll go inside and read the newspaper for 20 minutes."  This might cause them to turn blue.  I don't know, I'm just saying.  I would say this person might be kinda pissed at himself if, maybe, he bought the bike new and this was the first winter after he bought it.  Again, I'm not jumping to conclusions, I'm just saying, maybe. 

[cookiedough]

Basically, I am asking if 5-6 hours of labor time is to be expected at a Honda dealership to clean carbs/adjust valves/lean condition, etc.?  Dang, over 400 bucks out of my pocket just for labortime would suck if it does no good on top of another say 400+ bucks for both tires installed.  I'm no 'true' mechanic and don't really feel like fiddling with a piece of machinery worth about 8 grand besides doing oil/coolant/spark plug changes.  Can't speak much of the previous owner since I bought on consignment the bike from a Honda dealer and the only info. dealer had for me is the previous owner was old, could not handle it anymore, and bike was not driven much just sitting in a barn at his farm the past few years before I bought it. 

[JetDriver]

the only info. dealer had for me is the previous owner was old, could not handle it anymore, and bike was not driven much just sitting in a barn at his farm the past few years before I bought it. 

Did the dealer say anything about the previous owner only riding it to church on Sunday?  (Sorry, I can't answer your real question about labor hours, so I'm relegated to just making jokes.)

[Bob E.]

If you want the carbs "cleaned", I'm assuming you mean pull them, disassemble them, soak them in solvent and scrub them, then re-assemble and re-install them, then sync and tune them.  Yeah...I could see where that would take 5-6 hours easy.  About 17 years ago, I had this done on my KZ1000 and and it was about $250 plus another $100 for the stage-3 jet kit they installed when they put them back together.  So take $250 and add 17 years worth of inflation, plus 6-carbs versus 4 and you could easily be over $400.

[cookiedough]

thanks Bob, that is what I thought. I'm sure the carbs are all gunked up, parts sticking inside engine, since I bought the valk almost 3 years ago and only had 14.3K on the engine and my guess is most of those 14K miles was in the first 2-3 years since dealer said the bike sat for a couple of years in a barn shed not running/driving.  I'll try a whole can of seafoam in the next few tanks since I just got it out for the first time yesterday and despite bike starting fine on choke, had a heck of a time after 3-4 minutes of choke when I finally let if off choke the bike would idle O.K., but as soon as I tried to blip the throttle, the engine wanted to die.  May be normal though since it only happens at first start up after sitting thru the long winter season not running.  Lucky I had the garage door open since the exhaust fumes were starting to get to me. I suppose I could live with the way it runs and save my 400-500 bucks since I have had not so good of luck at dealerships (non honda) repairing vehicles even under warranty.
They say what is not broke, don't fix, may apply??

[MP]

Some report that Techron is stronger.  Get your tank down on reserve.  Put a whole bottle in, and take it for a short drive, to get the Techron down in the carbs good.  Then, park it for a few days.  Try it then, and run a whole tank of fresh gas thru it.  Run a pretty good blend of Techron in it for several tankfuls.  Then, see how it is running.  Might save a bunch of $.

Also, be sure to check vacuum hoses.  A small leak WILL cause problems.  You can replace them for a few $.  Or desmog it.

I would do these before paying to tear it all apart.

After all this, you might still have to, but, you have not wasted many $ trying these first.

MP

[cookiedough]

thanks MP, I'll see if I can find the Techron stuff around locally.  Worth a shot - can't hurt and possibly save me big bucks. 

[Alpha Dragon]

About 10 years ago, I bought an 87 GL1200, which had been sitting for a couple of years.  I rode it home, and it was a real dog, couldn't get over 50mph.  I put fresh gas in it, and some carb cleaner, (didn't know about Seafoam yet).  Ran it for a while, and it kept slowly improving.  Then, took it accross state, through the dessert in the heat, and it opened up.  Once I got it to run at 100+ accross the dessert, figured that was good enough.

What I am saying, is I would give the Seafoam (or I guess Techron) treatment a little time to work, and I would open her up wide every chance you get. 

I bet the problems clear up for you without spending $400 on the carbs.

Marty

[cookiedough]

I'll have to wait on opening her up above 75 mph when I get new tires this year, don't want a chance on a blowout doing 100 mph.  Anyone ever heard good/bad things about Lucas upper cylinder concentrate as well also made to clean fuel injectors?  It is about 5 bucks per bottle and must be super concentrated since it is only 5.25 oz. bottle and can treat about 10 gallons per 2.5 oz. or so. vs. seafoam can use to 2 oz. per 1 gallon.  I'll try adding what I feel is the maximum limit of Lucas, Seafoam again, and Chevron Techron well before I spend the 500 smackers at a dealer if needed later this year.  I do know that when I changed the spark plugs 2 years ago and added seafoam, that helped a lot, but maybe I just did not use enough seafoam (about 1/2 can and I know of others dumping in a whole 16 oz. can in the tank).  Thanks all for the suggestions and comments!!

[MP]

At first, I would make it as strong as possible.  Get it down into reserve, then run it.  May even quit!  That is OK.  Means you have lots in there.  Let it sit that way.  For a few days.  Let it work.  Then fill tank with fresh gas.  If it will not start, you may have to open the drain screw on each carb, to drain out the Techron and gunk.  Easy to do.

Then get it running, and head out on the highway!  Work it as hard as you can.  Try to take long rides.  Accell HARD.  Wide open.  Do not get a ticket though.  The more you can work it, the better the chance this will work.  

Use a strong dose of what ever you decide on for a while.  Several times stronger than suggested will not hurt.

MP

[JetDriver]

I just got it out for the first time yesterday and despite bike starting fine on choke, had a heck of a time after 3-4 minutes of choke when I finally let if off choke the bike would idle O.K., but as soon as I tried to blip the throttle, the engine wanted to die.  May be normal though since it only happens at first start up after sitting thru the long winter season not running. 

When I put my bike away for the winter, I make sure there is seafoam in the tank.  When I start it in the spring, I get what you got:  A little difficult to start, but finally it does.  Idles rough for a couple of minutes, but finally smooths out.  Doesn't like me blipping the throttle at first, but finally can handle that.  Kicks and sputters for the first half mile or so, but by time I get home, it's running great again.  That's with seafoam sitting in the carbs all winter and only sitting maybe 2 months or so.  If yours sat for several years, I can see where it will take longer, but, pretty much in line with what the others are saying, certainly get the treatment in the gas and then put some miles on it.  Like a detergent flowing over whatever you're trying to clean, it'll take a while, but eventually it will clean it out.

[Dragon2000]

I had the same problem under decel and it turned out to be a split vacuum line. After fixing that, I had no more problems. You could also consider de-smogging your bike and avoid all future problems related to the lines.

Experienced the same thing here with split hoses. I've also heard some amazing stories with people using Sea-Foam to clean out the carbs. To save some time and money you may want to try these 1st.

Steve