Idle adjustment

[honda*mann]

Hi,

On all my other bikes in the past their was a know to turn to adjust the idle.
I have not seen one on my 99 Interstate, have not spent too much time looking.
Is there one?

Thanks
Honda*mann

[Challenger]

RH side between the first & second intake runners, Gray knob pointing straight down from carb bank.

[MP]

+1 on Challengers answer.  You may have to get a light and get down, and kind of look up in there.  Once you find it, it is pretty easy.  Be sure to get the bike good and warm to adjust, but then it is  kind of hot.

MP

[JetDriver]

Honda recommends 900 rpm for the Valk.

[ricoman]

it's a gray knurled knob between nos. 1 and 3 intake runners-turn clockwise for higher idle
be real careful if you are lowering the idle-if the adjusting screw comes out you will have a hassle reinstalling it. It can be done without taking anything apart though. Just takes a little time and a colorful vocabulary!

[honda*mann]

Thanks

Honda*mann

[cookiedough]

Very easy to do and like others have mentioned, warm it up, but not too hot warmed up you burn your hands down there since you are apt to touch some hot part and if you do, you will have some cussing going on.  When I bought my Valk 3 years ago, I always wondered why my bike idled so low around 500-600 rpms just barely running.  After reading this and other forums, I quickly learned about this idle adjustment knob and turned it up to almost 1,000 rpms (between 900 and 1,000 rpms), but most posts say between 800-900 rpms).  It may be running a tad high at close to 1,000 rpms, but close enough.  The tach 900 vs. 1,000 rpms is so big of a needle reading, it is hard to tell the difference from 900 to say 950 rpms.

[honda*mann]

Hi,

Found it thanks.

I tried cranking it up as it seamed to be idling @ the 700 range.

Up @ 900 when I would be driving and pull in the clutch to shift it would stay idling high and then come down seconds later.

So I put her back to the 700 range.

Thanks
Honda*mann

[Challenger]

I'm thinking you might have a vacuum or an runner o-ring  problem. Both of mine (@ 950 rpm) return to idle immediately after releasing the throttle. second thing, how much free play do you have between the two (open & close) throttle cables.

[NITRO]

I'm thinking you might have a vacuum or an runner o-ring  problem. Both of mine (@ 950 rpm) return to idle immediately after releasing the throttle. second thing, how much free play do you have between the two (open & close) throttle cables.

Good answer challenger.

Do you have any problems with the exhaust popping under decel? That was the main problem I had before replacing my vacuum lines (one had a large split in it) and intake o-rings (by the time I replaced them, four of the six were leaking to some degree). That fixed all of my problems.

[cookiedough]

My cycle idles down fine immediately after letting off the throttle, but does pop the exhaust after hard deceleration after revving higher rpms for a short burst of speed.  Might have that problem also?  Any major harm really being done with split vacuum lines or bad 'o' rings?

[NITRO]

My cycle idles down fine immediately after letting off the throttle, but does pop the exhaust after hard deceleration after revving higher rpms for a short burst of speed.  Might have that problem also?  Any major harm really being done with split vacuum lines or bad 'o' rings?

No, it's just annoying. If the o-rings are bad enough they'll leak the fuel/air mixture out of the bottom of the intake tubes. If they're leaking, it'll look like you spilled some coke or pepsi on your engine block.

I replaced the vucuum lines last summer. It's not a fun job whatsoever as you have to remove the tank and airbox, then work all the lines through and attach them. I did the o-rings about two days before my bike was totaled. It's an easy job as long as you don't pull any of the vacuum lines off while farting around with the intake tubes.

[cookiedough]

good to know, thanks again nitro.  I actually don't mind the popping noise from time to time.  It won't pop if unless I gun it pretty good and then immediately let off the throttle all the way.  The pop is about the only noise I hear from the very quiet stock Interstate exhaust along with my mp3 player tunes mostly from the 80's.

[Valker]

Easiest split hose fix is a bit of electrical tape on the bottom of the hoses. Next easiest is to replace the tubes with the tank ON the bike. This is a post from "Cholla".


I've replaced my hoses with some common hose from NAPA that have lasted over 3 years now, still are "fresh".  If you get Viton hose, make sure its thick walled so it doesn't collapse from the vacuum in the line.

I don't know if you know about the "string method" of replacing those hoses, but before you take off the hoses, tie a long string (3' is plenty) to the end of the hose.  Then pull the hose out by the other end and the string will snake through where the hose was routed.  Then re-tie the new hose to the string, pull the string back and the hose will snake back through.  Saves a lot of time.

I also might suggest that when replacing the hose to #4, route it "under" instead of "over" the steel line just inside the intake tube to avoid the sharp bend in the hose.  Make sure there's not too much slack as to allow the hose to rest on top of the engine else the heat from the direct contact to the engine may melt the hose.  

[timk519]

I don't know if you know about the "string method" of replacing those hoses, but before you take off the hoses, tie a long string (3' is plenty) to the end of the hose.  Then pull the hose out by the other end and the string will snake through where the hose was routed.  Then re-tie the new hose to the string, pull the string back and the hose will snake back through.  Saves a lot of time.

I did mine that way - it saves a lot of aggravation.