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Author Topic: Super Valk Mod 2  (Read 1629 times)
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« on: February 22, 2003, 03:35:51 PM »

Super V (Mod 2) Conversion
A “How To” Customization Guide to convert the Super Valk Mod 1 into the Super V or SuperValk Mod 2
 

Why do this modification?
The Valkyrie is arguably one of the best bikes ever built!  The Interstate combines the Muscle of the Valkyrie with the manners of a touring bike.  The Super Valk (Mod 1) provided the looks and the muscle.  The Super V (Mod 2) refines the Supervalk making it a more functional and visually appealing.

                         
This How-to Guide is intended to give the benefit of the experience of those having made this conversion.  As with all projects of this type, proper safety rules should be followed.  Anyone attempting these modifications must understand that the author is in no way liable for misapplication of this information.  This modification may void your CB warranty.

Read all instructions before starting, if you do not feel comfortable doing the items discussed, please don’t attempt it.

Planning the conversion:
This conversion takes the Supervalk Mod 1 and moves the CB (if equipped), and antennas to the rear of the Saddle Bag rails.  This allows the CB and radio to be used when cruising in the “Muscle Bike” mode.

Items required for the conversion include:

Tools – A good quality Metric tool set is a must.  Common items needed include 8, 10 mm wrenches, Metric Sockets and ratchet, flat head and Phillips screw drivers, drill, bits, work lights.

 
 
 2 light clamps - Custom Chrome part# 19-238 works well
 
 
 
 Self stick Velcro
 
   
     Silicon Sealer
   
 2 stainless steel or chrome sheet metal screws
 
 
 Honda Shop Manual
 

Locate a suitable work area with good lighting, remember to use rags, cardboard, etc. to protect the paint and chrome.

Performing the Conversion
 Step 1 – removing the CB, and Antennas.  
1.   Remove the CB from under the trunk.  Retain the mounting brackets, 1 will be used to help secure the CB in the saddle bag.  Detach the cables under the right side cover, and under the seat.  Gently pull out towards the rear fender.

2.   Unplug the Radio Ant. From under the right side cover.  Gently pull the wires back out by the rear fender.

3.   Unplug the CB Ant.  Gently pull it out towards the rear fender.



4.    You should now have the CB unit free of the bike, as well as both Ant.

Step 2 – Mounting the Antennas  
1.   Take the Custom Chrome Bar Clamp and drill out the existing mounting hole allow the Ant. Mount to slide in.  A ½” drill should do the trick.

2.  Open each clamp up enough to slide over the fender rail without scratching, use pliers and a rag to bend back together.

3.   Thread Ant wire thru enlarged hole.

4.   Slide Ant. In and place bolt on and tighten (hint, paint the mounting bolt black, it looks better, Chroming is another idea).  

 

5.   Use hex nuts to tighten bar clamp so it will not swivel.  If this does not hold, drill a hole slightly smaller than the sheet metal screws you have, and use the sheet metal screws in place of the hex bolt.  Make sure the angle for the Ant. Is right, or it will hit your trunk if and when you remount it.  

 

6.   Run the Radio Ant. To the right side cover and connect, make sure it does not interfere with the brakes, rear wheel, or come in contact with the exhaust.

7.   Test the radio, if it works that part is complete.

 Step 3 – mounting the CB.
Now to mount the CB.  Based on doing this, and then getting to redo it, the best compromise of mounting places appears to be the left bag, below the rear mount bolt.  This allows all cables to reach without splicing, leaves room to work, and takes up as little room as possible.

1.   Position one CB bracket over the CB unit, and secure it to the rear mounting bolt.  Note the location for the next 2 steps.  

 

2.   Remove the CB and bracket, expose one side of the tape on the self stick of the Velcro onto the CB, press to stick.

3.   Expose the other “sticky side” of the Velcro, then press the CB against the Saddlebag wall where you had previously mounted it in step 1.

4.   Reattach the bracket, and test for to make sure it is secure.

Note:  My unit did not require the second bolt to be used under the CB.  If you feel it is needed, mark the location of the hole in the bracket, then drill a hole for another bolt to secure the bottom of the bracket to the saddlebag.

Step 4 – Opening the CB (or now is the time to get nervous)
*** Important **** Discharge any static electricity before touching the circuit board in you CB.  Failure to do this could fry your CB.  Opening the CB probably voids the warranty.  This step is necessary to limit the size of the hole in the saddlebag.  If you want to eliminate this step, drill a hole large enough to slig the under seat CB plug through on the wheel side of the Saddlebag (where the photo shows the 2 little holes drilled).
1.      Get a tray or some other shallow, flat work surface to work in.  This will lessen the chance of losing small screws, etc.

2.      Unscrew the 4 corner screws on the CB (side with wire coming out).  Place in a safe place.  

 

3.      Turn unit over and remove 1 screw in the middle of the side opposite where the wires come out (see photo).  

 

4.      (Make sure you have discharged static electricity) CB circuit boards will now slide out.

5.      There are 3 silver\brass screws holding the two circuit boards together, carefully remove, the boards can then be pulled apart.  Use care as a set of pins is what is holding the boards together do not bend these.  

 

6.      With the boards apart locate the 2 wires coming into the box, one has 3 wires, the other has about 20.  Gently pull the connector for these wires off the boards.  Note location, and do be careful to not bend the pins.  

 

7.      Now the rubber end cap which the wires pass through must be enlarged to allow the wires and connectors to be pulled free.  Carefully cut the rubber on the end cap to do this.  Be careful to not cut the wire.  Pointed scissors work very well for this.  

 

8.        Work the wires and connectors through the rubber very carefully so as not to damage the wire or connector.

9.      Set the CB aside.

Step 5 – Running the Wiring for the CB
1.      This operation is easier if the saddlebag is removed from the bike.

2.      Drill 2 holes on the wheel side of the saddlebag (see photo) large enough to allow the wires and connectors to be thread through.  

 

3.      Drill 1 hole on the bottom of the saddlebag (to the rear of the bike) for the CB Ant. Cable to thread through.  Note there is space at the rear to allow the cable to run between the metal protection place (over the exhaust) and the Saddlebag, this is a good spot for the wire to pass through).  

 

4.      Remount the saddlebag.

5.      Run the 2 wires from under the seat (and right side cover) back to the saddlebag.  Use care to secure the wire where it will on contact the wheel, brakes, shocks, etc.

6.      Thread the connectors through the holes in the wheel side of the Saddlebag.

7.      Thread the Ant. Connector into the rear of the saddlebag.  

Step 6 – Connecting the wiring to the CB
*** Important **** Discharge any static electricity before touching the circuit board in you CB.  Failure to do this could fry your CB.  Opening the CB probably voids the warranty.

1.      Thread the connectors and wires back through the rubber end piece.  



2.      Connect the 20 wire connector to is associated connector in the board.  The connector should only fit one way.  Slide on carefully, making sure pins are lined up and not bent.  

 

3.      Connect the 3 wire connector..  The connector should only fit one way.  Slide on carefully, making sure pins are lined up and not bent.  

 

4.      Reconnect the 2 circuit boards by carefully aligning the pins, then pressing together (this is the hardest part, so make sure pins are aligned and not bent.  



5.      If a pin gets bent, use needle nose pliers and gently straighten.

6.      Replace the 3 screws holding the boards together.

7.      Slide unit back into the case.

8.      Screw in 1 screw on the nonwiring side,

9.      Screw in 4 screws on the wiring side.

Whew!  That was fun!

Step 7 – Finishing up
Now to finish connecting the CB, testing, and then weatherproofing our work.

1.      Take silicon sealer and coat the wires where they pass into the CB through the rubber end cap that had to be cut.

2.      Thread the CB Ant. Connector into the saddlebag and connect.  

 

3.      Silicon the 3 drill holes in the saddlebag.

4.      Mount the CB

5.      Verify all wires are secured, especially the Ant wires and CB wires.

6.      Reattach the wires under the seat and in the right side cover.

7.      Turn on the bike and test the CB and Radio.

Trouble shooting
Any problems encountered can usually be attributed to the connections, especially the CB Ant. Connection.  If you get an ER message on the CB display, the internal CB Ant. Connection inside the CB may have pulled out.  Open the CB, verify all connections, and retest.  Also verify the cables under the seat and the right side cover, as well as the CB external Ant. Connection.  
 
Congratulations, you now have the Super V, or SuperValk Mod 2
Ride Safe – Blessings Biker Rabbi AKA “Rabbi” Cameron
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