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Author Topic: Rear Wheel Removal  (Read 1279 times)
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jjbtj
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« on: September 24, 2010, 11:24:21 PM »

Recently purchased a 2000 Valkyrie Standard.  Studied the maintenance recommendations on this forum (including the "Shop Talk" links that detail what/how to accomplish various procedures).  Decided to replace the final drive O-rings and apply the Honda Moly Lubricant to the splines, etc.  Following removal of the axle and brake caliper/bracket assembly, I moved the wheel away from the drive assembly until the brake rotor was against inside surface of the opposite swingarm (shock bottom-bolts removed and bike is raised with tire several inches from the floor). The 5 drive pins extend to where they virtually 'touch' the receptor plate attached to the wheel. I was unable to remove the wheel (unable to move wheel past the pins, regardless of how I articulated the wheel).

Believing the drive pins/plate moved 'out' as I moved the wheel, I attempted to 'slide' it back, away from the wheel.  No success.  Replaced the wheel, caliper assembly and axle.  All works as it should.  What have I failed to consider/execute in what should be a straight-forward procedure?  I appreciate this forum and the expertise of it's members.  Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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timk519
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« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2010, 04:05:57 AM »

BTDT - what's happening is the thing with the drive pins are holding onto the final drive because of the weight of the tire, and the wheel is sliding on the drive pins like you've seen. To get the wheel out, you'll need to support the wheel so the drive flange doesn't have any weight on it, the whole assy' will move over out of the final drive and then you can remove the tire.

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Tim K
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2001 Valkyrie Interstate
JoeValkIS
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« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2010, 08:28:03 AM »

Hey JJ,

Been there too.  I found that my wheel dampers were about worn out.  Replaced them and all was good again. 

To get the wheel off now, support the wheel, remove wheel from pumpkin, insert screw driver and carefully pry the drive flange out of the pumpkin.

Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate

You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
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« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2010, 09:28:30 AM »

I had the same issue getting the flange out after replacing the dampers. Like Joe said, carefully using a screwdriver will do the job. Just take care not to brace against the plastic that surrounds the final drive.
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jrhorton
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« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2010, 04:54:39 AM »

there's a slot on the bottom of the plastic shroud where you can insert the screwdriver to help pry the spider out.  This will prevent damaging the shroud....good luck, perseverance is your friend.

removing the friction by supporting the tire is a good tip.
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99 Yellow/Ivory Standard
2007 Phantom Black Rocket 3 Standard
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