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Author Topic: Rear BRAKE pads  (Read 470 times)
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Dallastar
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« on: April 24, 2011, 07:05:12 PM »

ok Im about to do rear brake pads on my 98 standard   any tips/trick i should know before i do this
i hav  done brakes on other bikes just wondering about this Valk

i do have a couple questions
according to repair manual looks pretty damn simple can it be

1...willl i have to remove my left leatherlike bag or can i just reach in there
2...about releasing the plunger pressure anything i should know
3..should i stick to oem brake pads or can i go with whatever

give me some does/donts with my Valks brakes     thanks alot in advance
you all that have helped in the past has saved me time/money
 
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Challenger
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2011, 07:38:39 PM »

This is what I do, Since I always change fluid when I change pads, I remove the master cylinder cover, use an eye dropper or turkey baster to suck out the fluid, (That way it doesn't spill out when you move the piston) Then I pry the caliper piston back in while it it is still on the bike, remove the retainer bolt and lift the caliper off, install the new pads making sure they are locked into the proper position, reinstall caliper, fill reservoir and bleed. You do not have to change the fluid (I do) If you have added any fluid to reservoir over time because of pad wear, it will over fill when you push the piston back in.  I do remove the bag and I use OEM pads. That is totally your choice. Good luck and enjoy the summer rides!   
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NITRO
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2011, 09:32:25 PM »

Some have reported that non-OEM pads eat up the rotors more quickly. I have only used OEM, so I cannot report on this.

Keep in mind that with the rear caliper, you do not need to remove the caliper to replace the pads.

This spring I removed all three calipers, blew out the pistons, replaced the seals, and cleaned everything well before reinstalling with new pads and changing the fluid. There was a lot of crud in the calipers, particularly the rear caliper that probably wouldn't have been flushed out just with bleeding. Just something to consider on your 10+ year old cycle.
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Dallastar
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2011, 09:37:56 PM »

Some have reported that non-OEM pads eat up the rotors more quickly. I have only used OEM, so I cannot report on this.

Keep in mind that with the rear caliper, you do not need to remove the caliper to replace the pads.

This spring I removed all three calipers, blew out the pistons, replaced the seals, and cleaned everything well before reinstalling with new pads and changing the fluid. There was a lot of crud in the calipers, particularly the rear caliper that probably wouldn't have been flushed out just with bleeding. Just something to consider on your 10+ year old cycle.

ok if i dont take off caliper does that mean the plunger in already depressed so pads slide out/in or do i what
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2011, 09:21:27 PM »

Just grab the caliper and push in and pull out on it. That should push the pistons in far enough to get the new pads in.
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Dallastar
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« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2011, 09:27:48 PM »

Just grab the caliper and push in and pull out on it. That should push the pistons in far enough to get the new pads in.

YES thanks I got it ..its was simple after i got into it
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